Chateaux living

Restaurant Christophe HAY (Loire Valley)

GETAWAYS • Loire Valley

Restaurant Christopher Hay sits on the second floor of the Hôtel Fleur de Loire, a Relais & Chateau property, originally built in the 17th century. Hay, who owns the entire complex, aspires to take his dining guests on a seated journey through the terroir of the Loire Valley.

Seasonal vegetables from celery root to salad greens and sweet potatoes are grown on the property, and the menu’s wagyu beef is raised by his team. Other local products ranging from fish to a variety of cheeses grace the menu. Highlights include black truffle with pressed kale, pain de siegle, and sauce ivoire (a variation of the sauce supreme) and an updated, daring lièvre à la royale (braised whole hare). The dishes are elaborate without being exhaustive, the general approach less gilded than one of eco-responsibility, sustainability, and localism (hard to find local wines like Les Jardins de Babylone from local legend Didier Dagueneau make for fabulously unique pairings).

The best seat in the house is the chef’s counter, with the special menu offered there (from 180-260 € per plus pairing). Should you wish to spend the night, the hotel in which the restaurant operates offers 44 modernly appointed rooms, suites, and villas, along with an expansive Sisley spa. Room rates start at 180 €/night. –Andra Zeppelin

→ Restaurant Christophe HAY (Loire Valley) • 26 Quai Villebois Mareuil • Thu-Mon 12h30-13h30, 15h30-21h30 • Book.