Counter service
Comptoir De Vie (2nd arr)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Following a series of pop-ups, Barney O’Kane and Alex Francis — two alumni of world-renowned mixology den Little Red Door — finally debuted their highly anticipated restaurant last month: Comptoir De Vie, which pairs a cocktail tasting with a fine dining menu, and is already one of the most talked about openings of the year.
The Vibe: Four distinct spaces represent each of the four seasons: spring (at forthcoming companion space Bar De Vie), autumn and winter in the two caves downstairs, and summer at Comptoir De Vie, as shown through the fresh green walls and ocean blue bar. The look is pared back but layered with texture, from repurposed oak tables and wall decorations made from recycled corn, to countertops crafted from volcanic rock and coasters made from naturally dyed Pyrenees wool.
Comptoir is a small space with a sociable team and an open kitchen, and most guests will sit around the bar to take it all in. Ask the team, and they’ll take you backstage to the R&D room where prepping and fermenting happens. In the blur of cocktails, it might help to know that the bathroom is hidden behind a huge mirrored wall downstairs.
The Food: Chef Adam Purcell already made something of a name for himself at Early June, but it feels like at De Vie he’s really coming into his own. Dishes carry the refinement of fine dining, without the pomp and pretension usually served alongside them. Witness the cod head beignet, a beer-battered mix of the (usually discarded) cheeks and collar, served with a fermented asparagus tartar sauce. There’s also a whole course dedicated to soda bread and butter.
An ethos of sustainability runs throughout, from Purcell’s sourcing to his clever and complete use of ingredients. Take a recent (and sadly departed) apple dessert: the puff pastry was soaked in syrup made from the apple cores, the apple flesh was cooked into a compote, and the ice cream came from winter’s preserved "blackened apples" to give a tarte-tatin-like caramel edge.
The Drink: Like the food, cocktails are inventive, highlighting the flavors of the season, from the obvious to the obscure. The winter twist on an Italian Sgroppino shows off classic seasonal French flavors with a Chantecler apple and sorrel sorbet topped up tableside with Normandy cider and Calvados fizz. More unexpected ingredients include radicchio, chicory, and hay, used to make the soda in the Hay cocktail. Cocktails are low ABV to help carry you through the five-drink tasting (there’s also an N/A option). And while wine clearly isn’t the focus here, there are some French natural wines stashed away in the fridge if you prefer.
The Verdict: There's no shortage of tasting menus in Paris, but right now, none feel as fresh, fun, or friendly as this one. –Nicola Leigh Stewart
→ Comptoir De Vie (2nd arr) • 22-24 Rue Saint-Sauveur • Wed-Sun 18h30-01h • 5 course tasting 90 € per • Book.