Daily whirl
Les Arlots, David Mallett, best right bank natural wine shops, Montmartre listings, Au Petit Panisse, COMETS, Marrakech, MORE
RESTAURANTS • FOUND Table
Endless waltz
The Backstory: Since opening its doors in the 10th in 2016, Les Arlots has been a constant presence in conversations about the best bistros in Paris.
The Experience: A grand wooden bar anchors the room, set against a colorful terrazzo floor and classic bistro tables and chairs — the comforting wooden kind, worn smooth by time and countless meals. One wall features a whimsical mural of a lobster and a pig waltzing beneath Paris rooftops. Opposite, a collection of slightly crooked, eclectic frames — posters and paintings that seem to sway to the rhythm of that same imaginary waltz. The shelves are stacked with natural wines from carefully chosen producers, punctuated by taxidermy curiosities. The space is intimate, seating just 20, with tables placed close enough to encourage easy conversation with neighbors, enriching the room’s warm, convivial energy.
Here, nothing tiptoes. The dishes are chef Thomas Brachet’s own kind of generous waltz — seasonal, spontaneous, changing with each service. The menu is tight and focused: four shareable starters, two mains, and two desserts. Plates whirl across the room, aromas of the homemade herby sausage in a pool of jus spin around the delightful freshness of the constantly renewed œuf mayo (a dish so iconic it’s been recognized by the L'Association pour la Sauvegarde de l'Œuf Mayonnaise). Today’s rendition pairs it with trout roe and bottarga, bold, long-lasting flavors, the rich mayo draping the shiny yolk, and a perfectly crunchy and aerated baguette to catch all of the beats.
An octopus salad, aromatic like pine needles after a summer rain, green and meaty, is enhanced by floral button mushrooms, kumquat, and fennel. The fish is served with seaweed butter mashed potatoes, soft as clouds, the briny butter brightening the dish, while a deep bisque with a slight spicy kick grounds it. Capers, croutons, and a few leaves of a bitter-fresh puntarelle add crunch and contrast, the absolute plat du jour. The finale is a whisper-light chocolate mousse, decadently topped with a roasted hazelnut praline and just the right pinch of fleur de sel.
There’s no set wine list. Instead, sommelier Tristan Renoux brings a curated selection tableside, sharing what inspires him in the moment. We’re drawn to Un coup d’ma doc by Les Terres Dubien, a stunning Bordeaux aged in amphora. Its tannins are supple and lingering, with a saline, iodized finish, like the crunch of sand underfoot.
Why it’s FOUND: Generous plates, thoughtful service, a cosy, unpretentious atmosphere, and details that elevate every moment. Les Arlots is a place where you come for the food, stay for the mood, and leave planning your return. –Candice Chemel
→ Les Arlots (10th arr) • 136 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière • Tue-Thu & Sat 12h-14h30, 18h-22h30, Fri 12h-14h15, 18-22h30 • Call to reserve.
PARIS WORK & PLAY LINKS: New restaurant Le Grand Cafe opens this week inside Grand Palais • Touring Lenny Kravitz’s ‘soulfully elegant’ Paris manse with the man himself • Inside interior designer Raphael Navot’s Parisian studio • Paris and pollution: a major improvement • The perfect second date night in Paris.
GOODS & SERVICES • The Nines
Natural wine shops, right bank
The Nines are FOUND's distilled lists of the best in Paris and surrounds. Additions or subtractions? Hit reply or email found@foundparis.com.
B.B.N. (2nd arr), eclectic selection of wines and wine-focused books in lively Montorgueil
Ici-même (12th arr), large selection of curated natural wines steps from Gare de Lyon; tables open outdoors at 18h for on-premise consumption
La Cave de Belleville (19th arr), natural wine institution featuring hundreds of French and international selections, plus area for by-the-glass pours, cheese & meat platters
Rerenga Wines (10th arr), natural wine shop/bookstore hybrid opened by New Zealand-born expat Nathan Ratapu focused on diversity and affordability
La Cave Pigalle (9th arr), independent natural wine shop featuring bottles sourced across Europe, w/ small selection of beers, ciders, and spirits
Crus et Decouvertes (11th arr), longstanding natural wine shop by ex-wine agent Michael Lemasle on rue Paul Bert, strong Loire Valley and Beaujolais selections
Divvino (11th arr, above), featuring bottle picks from small producers, plus wine tasting classes and curated wine trips
La Cave du Ballon Rouge (10th arr), 550+ selections of small-production wine and spirits, 130+ artisanal beer selections, not far from Canal Saint-Martin
Le Lieu du Vin (20th arr), charming natural wine shop founded by Auvergne-born Philippe Cuq, steps away from Père-Lachaise
REAL ESTATE • On the Market
Three properties for sale around Montmartre in the 18th arr.
→ House with courtyard (18th arr) • 3BR/2BA, 126 m2 • Ask: 2.43M € • 3-level house with private garden on ave Junot in Montmartre’s upper reaches • Agent: Romain Ledoyen, Barnes.
→ Detached townhouse (18th arr) • 4BR/4BA, 191 m2 • Ask: 3.4M € • recently renovated 3-story townhouse, short walk to Sacré-Coeur • Agent: Ghita Bennouna, Engel & Völkers.
→ Château des Brouillards (18th arr, above) • 5BR/3.3BA, 390 m2 • Ask: 13.6M € • 18th century mansion with indoor swimming pool, hammam, wine cellar, and private garden • Agent: Martin Maynial, Daniel Feau.
WORK • Friday Routine
Blowout
EMMET CLIFFORD • hairstylist • David Mallett
Neighborhood you work in: 2nd arr
Neighborhood you live in: Charonne in the 11th arr
It’s Friday morning. What’s the scene at your workplace?
I work at David Mallet hair salon in the 2nd arrondissement (you can also find us at the Ritz Paris). Friday mornings are always busy with everyone coming in for those last-minute appointments before the weekend. The salon has a great energy, so it’s really fun to be in the rush.
What’s on the agenda for today?
Today I’m hunting for a new coffee table at Les Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen, the enormous flea market just outside of the city where I find everything I do (and don’t!) need.
Any restaurant plans today, tonight, this weekend?
Tonight is dinner in the neighborhood at Au Petit Panisse. It’s a cosy restaurant with a delicious, always-changing menu. Another place I like is Bouillon Julien for easy, classic French food in a beautiful setting. It’s also great for larger get-togethers. And just a few doors down is the Turkish restaurant Urfa Durum, where they do super delicious wraps. Tomorrow morning I’ll pick up croissants from Union Boulangerie and I’ll probably stop by COMETS (see below) at some point over the weekend. They do great coffee, a great egg and avocado breakfast bun, and sell vinyl as well, so it’s a really cool Sunday hangout spot.
How about a little leisure or culture?
I most recently went to the Jeu de Paume to catch an exhibition about film director Chantal Akerman before it ended, and I’m hoping to go to the Centre Pompidou this weekend, they always have cool exhibitions on. I try to see live music as much as I can. There are always different and alternative concerts going on at Supersonic, so it’s a good way to discover new music. The last concert I went to was Vampire Weekend, who were just playing the Adidas Arena, and that was great.
Any weekend getaways?
I’m not long back from a week in Bordeaux. It’s a great place for enjoying city life as well as getting some fresh air out near the coast. Bar à Vin is a super cool wine bar in the city centre to try a range of wines from the region. They also have a school upstairs, L'École du Vin de Bordeaux, if you want to sign up for more serious tastings.
Outside of Bordeaux in Castets et Castillon there’s a restaurant I like called L’Écluse 52, hidden down along the canal de la Garonne en Gironde. It’s a typical French restaurant in a beautiful setting. I recommend eating outdoors when the weather is nice, then going for a walk down the canal afterwards. Another spot I like, more west on the coastline, is Arcachon Bay. There are some beautiful walks around there, and places to stop and eat fresh oysters with a glass of white wine, like La Cabane 57.
What was your last great vacation?
I was in Marrakech for the first time for my last holiday and it’s an incredible place. I booked a private riad with some friends, Dar Inès, in the Palmeraie area just outside the city. Aziza who runs the house is so kind, and offers a bespoke concierge service, so we had a private chef prepare dinner for us one evening. It was one of the best meals we ate while we were there. We also caught a fantastic exhibition about the life of YSL and his love for Marrakech at the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech. The Jardin Majorelle which is just next to the museum is also stunning, it’s a haven of exotic plants. Order a peppermint tea at the cafe and enjoy the view. We also went to Les Terrasses d'Agafay. It’s a hotel where you can spend the night in the desert, but you can also just go for the day like we did, have a great lunch and enjoy the pool. And one night we went for drinks at La Mamounia, which was just breathtakingly beautiful.
What’s a recent big-ticket purchase you love?
My winter coat from the Copenhagen brand Sunflower. It’s going to stay with me forever.
GETAWAYS LINKS: Appreciating Île d’Yeu off the coast of Western France, slightly more known but still hors du temps • In London, Dishoom plans (tiny) hotel for summer opening • Banyan Tree’s first European residences will be in Madrid • The artisans of Northern Italy.
CULTURE & LEISURE • Final Show
DJ Snake • Afterparty • Accor Arena (Bercy, 12th arr) • Sat @ 23h30 • carré OR, 90 € per
Soda Blonde • La Boule Noire (Pigalle, 18th arr) • Fri @ 20h • GA, 17 € per
Movements • Backstage by the Mill (Pigalle, 18th arr) • Sat @ 19h • GA, 28 € per
GOODS & SERVICES • FOUND Café
Record deal
COMETS, in the 11th, is a coffee shop-record store hybrid. I’ve definitely seen more customers sipping from handmade mugs than perusing the vinyl, but the best of both worlds are on offer. The shop boasts a big communal table upon entry, as well as a back area with some smaller tables and couches, a few outdoor seats, and my personal preference, three interior chairs posted up against a bar-like table nestled against the front window.
Coffee is sourced from Placid (Lyon) and Dak (Amsterdam). The cappuccino is one of the best I’ve found in the city, but a number of other drinks are offered, including standard espresso, americano, chocolat chaud, and chai latté, along with — most surprisingly — cold brew and iced lattés.
Beyond great coffee, COMETS offers equally delicious pastries and a small selection of breakfast and lunch options. Beyond the croissant and pain au chocolat, all pastries — like banana bread, brownies, and chocolate chip cookies — are made in-house. Early in the day, the signature breakfast bun is made with a soft-boiled egg, cheddar, avocado, arugula, pickled red onion, and spicy mayo, and the housemade granola is served with fromage blanc. For lunch, there’s a rotating sandwich, grilled cheese, and flaky, gluten-free quiche served with a side of salade verte.
The COMETS website reads, “We serve coffee, we sell records, we’re trying our best.” It’s working. –Vicki Denig
→ COMETS (11th arr) • 38 Rue Léon Frot • Mon-Fri 08h30-17h, Sat-Sun 09h30-17h.
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