Elusive muse
Aldehyde, 7th arr listings, Souleil Wines, Atica, Husbands loafers, Relais de Chambord, best Easter chocolates, MORE
RESTAURANTS • Table d'Hôte
Daring hybrid
Franco-Tunisian chef Youssef Marzouk is pioneering an intriguing new French gastronomic idiom at Aldehyde, opened last August in the Marais. Call this new style Franco-Mahgrebine, the latter word deriving from the name the French use to refer collectively to their former colonies in North Africa — Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia. It represents a daring hybrid of culinary cultures never seen in France before.
Aldehyde is the name of the molecule that gives coriander its taste — fittingly, Marzouk trained to be an industrial chemist, but he eventually gave into his love of food and trained to be a chef. He also gave into the family legacy. Born in France to Tunisian parents, his father founded the largest Middle Eastern pastry bakery in the Paris region, and his mother runs a restaurant.
Marzouk began in the kitchens of the Hotel Ritz, then worked with Franco-Cambodian chef Tony Gousset before moving to Le Cheval Blanc, Paris, where he was spellbound by the signature sauces of Arnaud Donckele. “I didn’t want to cook French haute cuisine, though,” says Marzouk. “I wanted to cook my own food.”
And that’s exactly what he’s doing in the open kitchen facing one of Aldehyde’s two dining rooms decorated with Tunisian ceramics (and framed sepia-toned photos of his family, too). His dishes are a clear and edible elision of his identities.
The tasting menus evolve regularly, but recent stand-outs included a tomato salad of burrata with orange-flower water; lamb with an espuma of mechouia, a cooked Tunisian condiment of tomatoes, peppers, onions, and garlic; and a poignant dessert called ‘Grandpere’ (grandfather). “When I’d sit in front of him on his motor bike, he smelled of the cigars and After Eight mints he loved so much,” says Marzouk, explaining the dessert of tobacco, mint, and chocolate. –Alexander Lobrano
→ Aldehyde (4th arr) • 5 Rue du Pont Louis Philippe • Lunch Wed-Sat 12h-13h30, Dinner Tue-Sat 19h30-21h • Book.
PARIS WORK & PLAY LINKS: The fascinating new restaurant inside a former Belleville shoe factory • Catching up with Vanessa Grall of Messy Nessy’s Cabinet in the 5th • A delightful ceramics boutique in the 7th • New works defy expectations at blockbuster Hockney retrospective at Fondation Louis Vuitton • Global art sales down 12% in 2024; France down 10%.
REAL ESTATE • On the Market
Three private houses on offer in the 7th arr:
→ Two-story house (7th arr) • 4BR/2.3BA, 157 m2 • Ask: 5.5M € • extremely private 2-story house with paved courtyard • Annual property taxes: NA; share of common charges: 8000 € • Agent: Cyril Marin Le Quellec, Barnes.
→ Five-bedroom townhouse (7th arr) • 5BR/4.1BA, 233 m2 • Ask: 5.995M € • 3-level townhouse at back of condo by Rue Cler, with landscaped garden • Annual property taxes: NA; share of common charges: 8232 € • Agent: Julia Pinhas, Barnes.
→ Private mansion (7th arr, above) • 3BR/4BA, 350 m2 • Ask: 7.5M € • 3-story house with elevator and spiral staircase on Rue de Lille • Annual property taxes: 3674 €; share of common charges: 3600 € • Agent: Villaret Saint Germain.
WORK • Friday Routine
Weekend buzz
MARIANNE FABRE-LANVIN • founder • Souleil Wines
Neighborhood you live in: 1st arr/Louvre
It’s Friday morning. What’s the scene at your workplace?
Sharp and buzzing, fueled by (too many) espressos, with everyone expertly juggling tasks. Just another day in paradise!
What’s on the agenda for today?
We’re on the hunt for wine photos that don’t look like wine photos from our most recent shoot, crafting some riveting correspondence, planning upcoming events, and of course, diving into the thrill of accounting magic. Later today, I’ll make a quick pit stop at La Vie Claire, an organic grocer that doubles as my ‘point relais’ to pick up this week’s fresh catch from Poiscaille. The lineup? Monkfish destined for a lotte à l’américaine recipe; mussels ready to transform into moules marinières, and scallops in the shell soon to be a delicate carpaccio with olive oil and fresh passion fruit — all to be beautifully paired with Souleil Vin de Bonté Le Blanc. Vivement le week-end!
Any restaurant plans today, tonight, this weekend?
At apéritif time, I’ll swing by Le Fumoir, my go-to hangout and longtime favorite. We go way back — I was a regular there even in my student days. Some things (thankfully) never change!
I’m also eagerly anticipating my visit to Atica, a new immersive restaurant led by Sudeep Rangi that celebrates the fusion of gastronomy and the arts. This season’s theme dives into Basque culture and culinary staples. The concept is intriguing — it reminds me of Williamsburg’s Monkey Town, the legendary dinner-meets-performance venue that might have been ahead of its time. But now feels like the perfect moment for Atica to shine.
How about a little leisure or culture?
Last Saturday, my husband Nico and I went to see Les Soeurs Hilton, by the delightfully mischievous Christian Hecq and Valérie Lesort, whose plays never fail to deliver wit with a side of whimsy. The show took place at Les Bouffes du Nord, a theater with cutting-edge programming and (dare I say it) perhaps the most charming performing arts venue in all of Paris. Fun fact: it was the very muse for BAM in Brooklyn!
Any weekend getaways?
We went to Venice for Thanksgiving, trading turkey for La Traviata at La Fenice. Winter is the best time to visit Venice — the city regains its mystery, and the crowds thin just enough to make it feel like a well-kept secret.
What was your last great vacation?
This past summer, we stayed on a secluded Mediterranean island. Far from civilization, we spent our days reading books, cooking, playing Scrabble, paddling on the sea, and catching both sunrises and sunsets. Our only companion? A charming cat that Nico named ‘Clafoutic’ (yes, like the dessert, but with a hint of Eastern European flair). It was the perfect system reset, leaving us refreshed and ready to embrace new horizons with a clearer mind.
What store or service do you always recommend?
Poiscaille! They deliver fresh, sustainably sourced seafood straight from small-scale fishermen to fish lovers. The name is a playful blend of ‘poisson’ (fish) and ‘biscaille’ (a colloquial term for fish in some French dialects). Each weekly box typically includes what's in season — fish, shellfish, and crustaceans — supporting local fishing communities and promoting sustainable consumption. I’m hooked!
CULTURE & LEISURE • All Weekend
Franglish • Accor Arena (12th arr) • Sat @ 20h • section O, 86 € per
The Mary Wallopers • Le Trabendo (Parc de la Villette, 19th arr) • Sat @ 20h • GA, 33 € per
Marillion Weekend • Casino de Paris (9th arr) • Fri-Sat • fosse, 139 € per
GOODS & SERVICES • FOUND Shop
Marriage material
For the last 13 years, even mentioning Paris-based menswear atelier Husbands was a bit of a tacit handshake of good taste. But following their recent (and first) New York trunk show, founder Nicolas Gabard and his brand have been barnstorming the feed, being interviewed by James Harris on Throwing Fits and in GQ under the headline “When You Are in Husbands, You Are the Sexiest Guy in the Room.”
Disclaimer: I’m not someone who stays incredibly au currant when it comes to fashion, nor do I buy into its hyperbole. But this time, it might be merited: Gabard’s designs feel as new as they do distinctly French, and foundationally, effortlessly cool (with inspiration drawn from Bryan Ferry, the impeccable style of Godard films, et al). I picked up a pair of their horsebit loafers a few years back; they’ve since aged beautifully — the leather buttery soft, the shoes themselves still more than capable of hitting a wedding one night, a nightclub the next. Harris recently spoke on his podcast of getting one of their custom suits, a dream, but I’d settle for something off-the-rack, or even another pair of the loafers. The horsebits are sold out for now, but the buckle loafers are still available.
Go try them on in their small-but-mighty showroom at the original store around the corner from the Jardin du Palais Royal or at the newer boutique on the left bank, or just get them online — but do it now, before the market for Husbands gets even hotter. –Foster Kamer
→ Shop: Buckled Loafers (Husbands), $773.
→ Visit: Husbands • 57 rue de Richelieu • Mon-Sat, 11h-19hp
→ Visit: Husbands • 1 rue de l'Abbaye • Tues-Sat, 11h-19hp
GETAWAYS • French Alps
Chateaux living
Within a two hour drive from Paris (not quite as easy by train), you’re in the Loire Valley in the middle of chateaux built hundreds of years ago by kings. Built by Francis the 1st, Chambord is among the most famous, while the Relais de Chambord, a hotel steps away from the 16th Century castle, makes visiting a door-to-door breeze of a weekend trip.
The only hotel on the large Unesco heritage site property, the Relais is a four-star boutique spot with a classic, clean look and historic flair, featuring an attractive restaurant and a wonderful spa. Breakfast is a French buffet, with everything from a selection of pastries made in-house to a cheese bar leaning very local. Dinner is an intricate affair, where pasta comes with freshly shaved truffles, and the giant ribeyes pair well with a wide selection of French wines.
While rooms and hospitality are on point, the property, the largest enclosed park in Europe, is the reason to come. There are bikes to be borrowed, boats to be rented, and horses to be ridden. To round out the trip, embark on an hour-long hot air balloon ride with Aerocom, a company that will pick you up in a car and take you up in a wicker basket, up to 5000 meters over the clouds, floating to bliss past several chateaux, many vineyards, and the rest of the resplendence of the Loire landscape. –Andra Zeppelin
→ Relais de Chambord (Loire Valley) • Place Saint-Louis, 41250 Chambord • Weekend room rates from 188 €.
GETAWAYS LINKS: In London, Custom House may become new luxury hotel • Brand new Orient Express now boarding in Rome • Plans announced for Raffles Lake Como, coming in 2027.
GOODS & SERVICES • The Nines
Chocolate, Easter
The Nines are FOUND's distilled lists of the best in Paris and surrounds. Additions or subtractions? Reply to this email and tell us.
Pierre Hermé Paris (Concorde and other locations, above), chess, checkers, and dominoes in this year’s Easter collection by pastry chef Pierre Hermé
Jeffrey Cagnes (Montorgueil), traditional roudoudous reimagined in chocolate-peanut version, along with cartoonish chocolate animals
Debauve & Gallais (Bourse, Saint-Germain-des-Prés), Easter bells, hens, and eggs, each sealed by the historic chocolatier’s logo
Alléno & Rivoire (Ecole Militaire), exotic collection by chefs Yannick Alléno and Aurélien Rivoire, featuring sculpted egg w/ crystallized pineapple and plant-based milk chocolate
Claire Heitzler (Levallois), female-led chocolatier offering large eggs and charming packs of miniature chocolate sardines
Nicolas Paciello (Boulogne, Pantin), playful take on gianduja, pecan praline, and Dulcey chocolate, presented in collection of colorful large eggs
Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse (Palais Royal and other locations), chef Alain Ducasse goes Mediterranean w/ chocolate turbots, lobsters, and turtles
Cheval Blanc Paris (Pont Neuf), Maxime Frédéric pays homage to Notre-Dame’s reopening via sculpted replica of cathedral’s bell
A La Mere de Famille (Montorgueil and other locations), generous selection of petites fritures, small chocolate and praline sea creatures
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