Endless waltz

Les Arlots (10th arr)

RESTAURANTS • FOUND Table

The Backstory: Since opening its doors in the 10th in 2016, Les Arlots has been a constant presence in conversations about the best bistros in Paris.

The Experience: A grand wooden bar anchors the room, set against a colorful terrazzo floor and classic bistro tables and chairs — the comforting wooden kind, worn smooth by time and countless meals. One wall features a whimsical mural of a lobster and a pig waltzing beneath Paris rooftops. Opposite, a collection of slightly crooked, eclectic frames — posters and paintings that seem to sway to the rhythm of that same imaginary waltz. The shelves are stacked with natural wines from carefully chosen producers, punctuated by taxidermy curiosities. The space is intimate, seating just 20, with tables placed close enough to encourage easy conversation with neighbors, enriching the room’s warm, convivial energy.

Here, nothing tiptoes. The dishes are chef Thomas Brachet’s own kind of generous waltz — seasonal, spontaneous, changing with each service. The menu is tight and focused: four shareable starters, two mains, and two desserts. Plates whirl across the room, aromas of the homemade herby sausage in a pool of jus spin around the delightful freshness of the constantly renewed œuf mayo (a dish so iconic it’s been recognized by the L'Association pour la Sauvegarde de l'Œuf Mayonnaise). Today’s rendition pairs it with trout roe and bottarga, bold, long-lasting flavors, the rich mayo draping the shiny yolk, and a perfectly crunchy and aerated baguette to catch all of the beats.

An octopus salad, aromatic like pine needles after a summer rain, green and meaty, is enhanced by floral button mushrooms, kumquat, and fennel. The fish is served with seaweed butter mashed potatoes, soft as clouds, the briny butter brightening the dish, while a deep bisque with a slight spicy kick grounds it. Capers, croutons, and a few leaves of a bitter-fresh puntarelle add crunch and contrast, the absolute plat du jour. The finale is a whisper-light chocolate mousse, decadently topped with a roasted hazelnut praline and just the right pinch of fleur de sel.

There’s no set wine list. Instead, sommelier Tristan Renoux brings a curated selection tableside, sharing what inspires him in the moment. We’re drawn to Un coup d’ma doc by Les Terres Dubien, a stunning Bordeaux aged in amphora. Its tannins are supple and lingering, with a saline, iodized finish, like the crunch of sand underfoot.

Why it’s FOUND: Generous plates, thoughtful service, a cosy, unpretentious atmosphere, and details that elevate every moment. Les Arlots is a place where you come for the food, stay for the mood, and leave planning your return. –Candice Chemel

→ Les Arlots (10th arr) • 136 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière • Tue-Thu & Sat 12h-14h30, 18h-22h30, Fri 12h-14h15, 18-22h30 • Call to reserve.