Greener pastures

Ruche (Gambais)

GETAWAYS • Forêt de Rambouillet

The Skinny: Just a 45-minute drive from Paris, nestled in the Forêt de Rambouillet, lies a country house surrounded by a bountiful garden that feeds both Ruche and its Boulogne counterpart, La Table de Cybèle. Chef Cybèle Idelot, originally from San Francisco, and her husband Franck (from Champagne) split their time between the two locations. Here, the team works the garden together, feeding their menu with the freshest produce possible.

The Vibe: Soft green pastels, natural linens, and warm wood coalesce for a relaxed, earthy setting, as though you’re staying for the weekend at the home of your friends Cybèle and Franck (a few overnight rooms are indeed available to book). Shelves supporting jars of preserved or dried produce, herbs, and peels instantly immerse you in Cybèle’s no-waste approach, intertwined with cookbooks, art, and design books.

The Food: Whether showcasing the morning’s prime harvest or humble vegetable scraps, each serving demonstrates a deep respect for ingredients. With a focus on sustainability, Cybèle even reimagines cacao — her focao, a concoction made from smoked vegetable scraps mimics the beans’ bitterness and nuttiness. Another standout is her carrot dish, featuring every part of the vegetable, and including a carrot “coffee” delicious enough to drink by the mug. The food is vegetable-driven without being vegetarian; she also serves local game and fish from small fishmongers.

The Drink: Franck kicks things off with garden-inspired mocktails or cocktails before diving into an impressive selection of natural wines. His extensive knowledge brings the stories behind each cuvée to life. The wines aren’t just complimentary, but a natural extension of the flavors on the plate, adding an extra layer of depth to the experience. For instance, a velvety Ploussard by Les Bottes Rouges accompanies a dish of venison loin, kiwai with marigold, pointed cabbage, and mustard seeds.

The Verdict: It’s worth making time for the Sunday lunch tasting menu, in which the seven courses unfold over a leisurely afternoon, a quaint escape combining thoughtful cuisine and loving hospitality. –Candice Chemel

→ Ruche (Gambais) • Domaine les Bruyères, 251 Avenue de Neuville • Book.