Moko all day
Mokochaya (11th arr)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: A laid back, all-day café from the husband-and-wife duo behind beloved spots Mokonuts and Mokoloco, Mokochaya opened last fall.
The Vibe: Contemporary neighborhood café dressed with the usual 11th arrondissement design codes (neutral walls, rustic wood columns, minimalist furnishings). The ceilings are high and the space feels light and relaxed, without the usual up-tempo lunch rush energy or gaggles of weekend brunch queues. In the classic spirit of the all-day café, you could pop by for breakfast and hang around for multiple coffees until the lunch service, but friendly warning: no laptops.
The Food: Co-owners Omar Koreitem and Moko Hirayama have always brought a mix of influences to the table — Koreitem hails from Lebanon, Hirayama from Japan, and their resumes includes stints at Daniel in New York and Gordon Ramsay in London. At Mokochaya, there’s more of a Japanese feel to the menu — recent specials have included a chirashi bowl and a cuttlefish congee — and a brighter spotlight on Hirayama’s pastries. At lunch and brunch, one of the rotating selections of bentos is the dish to order, followed by Hirayama’s well-known signature cookies, but if you see labneh cheesecake scrawled on the desserts du jour chalkboard, order that too (you can always take the cookies to go). This is also where to go for breakfast now that Mokonuts has gone lunch-only. If you’re here with kids, as ever, they’re made to feel special with their own bento of omurice, meatballs, veg, and a slice of the daily dessert (with a side of coloring pages and pencils).
The Drink: Coffee, of course, but also sobacha tea, kombucha, homemade pear syrup, orange blossom lemonade, and more. It’s not a boozy brunch spot, but wine and beer are also available.
The Verdict: A next-generation neighborhood cafe from a hit team expanding on their trademark warmth and fun mix of influences makes for a perfect breakfast or brunch spot. –Nicola Leigh Stewart
→ Mokochaya (11th arr) • 11 Rue Saint-Bernard • Tue-Sat 08h30-18h, Sat brunch 11h-15h30.