Rare balance
Mandoobar (8th arr)
RESTAURANTS • FOUND Table
The Backstory: Chef Kim Kwang-Loc’s intimate Mandoobar offers a thoughtfully crafted lunch inspired by Kwang-Loc’s early experiences in Korea. The space is relatively small, and each table’s limited to one hour at lunchtime, but that turns out to be just enough for an efficient staff to guide you through the concise menu.
The Experience: With its open kitchen and deep wooden counter, the space is perfectly suited for a relaxing lunch, where conversation blends seamlessly with working chefs’ hypnotic preparations and friendly staff attending to tables. While seating at the counter often means sacrificing both knee and plate room, large wooden high chairs let you enjoy the comfort of a table with the theatrics of dining at the counter.
Mandoobar boasts a short, impactful menu. To start, towers of bamboo steaming baskets arrive filled with luscious silky dumplings. The recipes are fairly classic, but I’d go to great lengths for the flawlessly executed kimchi mandu. Mains are limited to a choice of tartares — beef, sea bream, tuna, or mackerel —- all herb-laced, vibrant, and elegant. Two sides are on offer: a seasonal vegetable salad brightened by passion fruit and yuzu, and a beautifully cooked bowl of rice. For dessert, a selection of homemade ice cream scoops made from seasonal fruits, each offering refreshing, unexpected twists on otherwise familiar flavors.
To drink, there’s a selection of Korean wines and fermented teas, with unique pairings to complement each dish. The tea is served in multiple infusions throughout the meal, gradually mellowing to match the flavors of each course.
Why it’s FOUND: Having recently celebrated its 10th anniversary, Mandoobar is the rare gem that continues to offer the perfect trifecta of a lunch: comfort, sophistication, and a quick turnaround. –Candice Chemel
→ Mandoobar (8th arr) • 7 Rue d'Edimbourg • Tue-Sat 12h-15h & 17h30-23h • Book.