Supper club
Magnolia (Quartier Pigalle)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Rapidly growing SoPi has rightfully earned its reputation as a cocktail and nightlife neighborhood, but (beyond a few decent hotel restaurants) Pigalle’s dining options are comparatively slim. Maxime Vaudin set out to change that with his debut restaurant, 1970s-inspired bistro Magnolia.
The Vibe: The space is veiled from the street by a gauzy linen curtain that takes on a faint hue from the candlelit tables. Paris-based designer Nathan Baraness infused subtle hints of nostalgia in the form of globe light fixtures and a boudoir-style antique fringed lamp crowning the room’s centerpiece, a crescent-shaped marble bar. Oak-framed mirrors line exposed brick walls, draping above ochre-colored velvet banquettes that are swathed in the finest of fabric from French maison Pierre Frey, while walnut shelves displaying ceramics and coffee table books lend a lived-in feel. The ’70s theme is accentuated by the color palette radiating from the main dining area’s geometric painting by French-Italian abstract artist Émile Gilioli.
The Food: When Robert in the 11th shuttered, London-trained chef Jack Bosco Baker helmed a series of packed pop-ups. At Magnolia, he’s brought his English-influenced cooking to a permanent new locale. Ingredients are seasonal, but the cuisine isn't as rinse-and-repeat as what you find in the 11th’s neo-bistros. The menu of French- and pub-inspired plates range from light (sashimi slivers swimming in a blood orange broth, blanketed in Italian spring saltworth) to hearty (beef and Guinness pie, reimagined bouillabaisse). Indulge in a bite of triple-cream Brillat-Savarin before moving on to the house special — armagnac-infused chocolate-vanilla profiteroles.
The Verdict: Magnolia works on multiple levels. The room is a consistent buzz, but you can still hear your companions over the animated chatter. The dimly lit space is romantic, but its mix of small plates and shareable mains cater just as much to larger groups as a couple on date night (or someone on their first app date). Finally, a Pigalle destination restaurant. –Lane Nieset
→ Magnolia (Quartier Pigalle) • 5 rue Henry Monnier • Lunch: Thu-Fri from 12h; Dinner: Tue-Sat from 19h • Book.